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Complies with Federal Specification TT-P-1536A.For setting and sealing plumbing fixtures and drains.Solvent Welding Guide and Technical Tips.Sealants, Compounds, Lubricants & Cutting Oils.All the putty or anything else does on top is keep the water in the sink, has nothing to do with leaks at the bottom. marble and also why it dries out and crumbles over time. I believe it has linseed oil in it and that is why it can stain Cult. There should be no problem using silicone, I too like Lexel much better but woe be unto he who tries to take it apart later.īy the way you must not have had very fresh plumbers putty, usually it does not give up and crumble till after you leave and the customer has all their treasures under the sink. As for the top here is another thread along those lines.Īll the cultured marble ones I have seen (at least the quality ones) say to not use plumber's putty. If there are only minor inperfections I have used the teflon modified paste like White seal, Rectorseal, etc. As others said you should not have to do anything to the bottom on the sink, but if it is that rough you can clean it up some. Of course, to use those solvents, you’d first have to separate the pieces to allow the solvent to contact the glue, and this wouldn’t be easy.īefore I re-invent the wheel, though, I thought I’d avail myself of some expert opinion.įirst, I am not a plumber. I have also thought about using Pliobond, an industrial adhesive made by Goodyear, which is extremely strong, extremely adhesive, remains flexible, is totally waterproof, but can be removed with lacquer thinner, acetone, or MEK. I have considered using pipe dope the kind I use on threads is a paste with teflon powder mixed in, about the consistency of peanut butter. I don’t want to use caulk because I doubt it could be removed in the future but perhaps one of you knows of one that isn’t too strong and can be peeled off in 10 years. This is typical of my previous experiences with this useless crap. Naturally, as soon as I turned on the water to test it, large quantities poured down from the junction of the gasket, the nut, and the sink underside, since of course the PP had disintegrated with light pressure. The nut was snugged down carefully, but not overtightened. On the underside, the top to bottom sequence was: sink-PP-rubber gasket that comes with pop-up-PP-hex nut that encircles the 1 1/4″ drain tube. I used the PP between the chrome drain rim and the smooth upper surface of the sink. The underside is slightly roughened but flat ceramic surface. The sink and top are a one-piece, cast fake marble. The dough I bake biscuits with has far greater strength and adhesivity. It has no adhesiveness, either it stricks to nothing. So I need advice.Īs everyone knows, the putty has no internal cohesiveness it breaks apart at the slightest pressure. Now I am having problems, yet again, with it. It is worthy of hatred, because it is useless.